Showing posts with label Cold Frame. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cold Frame. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

How To Build A Cold Frame

Here are the basic plans for how I built my cold frame. I am not going to go into great detail as details change depending on your window size, materials used etc.
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Materials:

window(s)
2x6 lumber for the frame, spruce, pine or cedar
2x2 lumber, spruce, pine or cedar
outdoor wood screws
outdoor hinges
3 metal handles

Start by finding or making a window, I used a double glazed window that is used in exterior doors. You could also use old wood windows or make your own window with Plexiglass. You can also use multiple windows to make a longer cold frame.

Once the window(s) have been chosen proceed with calculating how much wood you will need to make the frame. I chose to make my frame 3 2x6 high in the back and 2 2x6 high in the front. This will create an angle of approx. 13 degrees to catch the sun.

When you have all your lumber calculated and at hand start by building the front and rear panel of the frame. You will need 5 pieces of 2x6 that are the length of your frame. The 2 top 2x6 will need to have a bevel cut on the top for the window to fit snugly. This can be accomplished by tacking a straight edge on the top 2x6's that will accommodate your saw, set your circular saw to 13 degrees and cut the top edge on an angle. It can also be done on a table saw if you are lucky enough to have one.



Now that your have 2 beveled 2x6 and 3 2x6 cut to the length of your frame you can start to fasten them together. Layout out your 2 bevel cut 2x6 and then add 1 straight 2x6 to the front panel and 2 straight 2x6 to the back panel making sure the bevels are facing forward. When the panels are layed out fasten them together using screws and 2x2's. Cut the 2x2's a 1/2" shorter then each panel with an angle cut on the top so they do not interfere with the window closing.

With the back and front panel completed, I then tacked them together with scrap wood to form the width of the frame. I then attached the window and squared everything up to the window. Doing this helps if you are working by yourself and it also squares the frame to the window which may not be overly square.

When the frame is adjusted and tacked together measure the width and cut 6 2x6 to fit. I then fastened these in place by pre-drilling/screwing through the front and back panels into the side panels. Once you get to the top side pieces, put them in place and use you tacking stripe as a straight edge to transfer the angle to the pieces. Then cut along the line and fasten them in.

Now that your frame is completed add two side handles for transporting the frame and one handle to the window to aid in opening. The only other thing that is need now is a way to keep the window open on hots days. There are many ways of doing this from a simple wedge, to a gas assist lift like the ones used on screen doors or you can use automatic temperature lifts if your window is light enough for them to operate. I will be adding a screen door opener on mine once the weather get warm enough to need one.

One other thing that is a great addition to a cold frame is a min/max thermometer that will show the lowest and highest temperature. I will also be adding one of these in the near future.

Check out my other cold frame posts

Friday, November 21, 2008

Cold frame Setup

Well, it has been one mighty cold couple of days. It is not unheard of for my area to have lows of -10c(14f) in November but the last few years makes it certainly seem unusual. Even with the temperatures I decide to put the cold frame out anyway and see what happens.

I built the frame about 6 inches higher then is recommend so I could bury it into the soil for added insulation. I dug the hole, placed it in and then back filled around the outside. I then raked out the soil inside, put the cheapo thermometer in and shut the lid.

After about an hour I headed back out and the temperature was holding at 0c(32f) with the outside temperature being -5c(23f). I then checked again just before sunset and it was holding at -2c(29f) with the outside temperature being -7c(19.5f). I will be checking again later this evening and early tomorrow morning.

This is obviously nowhere near a consensus of the temperature range of the frame but I am pretty sure I will not be starting seeds anytime soon. If the outside temperatures stays in the range they have been I will not be starting any seeds until march I'm guessing. Now if we go back to the temperature we have been having the last couple weeks I may be able to start some baby greens. Only time will tell I guess. Either way if I can not use it right way it will most definitely come in handy in March when the sun and temps are stronger.

On another note I have started to read two of Eliot Coleman's books, 'The New Organic Grower' as well as 'Four-Season harvest.' He runs a four season farm in Maine, US and has mastered the technique of four season growing in a climate that is harsher then mine. What I can gather from glancing over the books is he plants from Aug-Oct for winter harvest and then basically holds over the crops in the cold frame or in his case movable greenhouses. So in other words I should have built the cold frame in Sept and seeded no later then Oct.

I will keep updating on the frame as things progress as well as do a post on how I built the frame next week. I also have some fall bulb posts in draft that I will be posting over the next few days.